COM-USB alternative – DIY and cheap!

One of the things which really attracted me to the Texecom panels was the ability to interface them directly with the computer – and other things (to be described in a future post). However, in order to do this you need to buy a fairly expensive cable from Texecom – the COM-USB:

Texecom COM-USB

These seem to retail for about £40, although there are some cheaper 3rd party versions on ebay for rather less, which seem to do exactly the same job:

usb-com

However even this seems a bit steep for what looks a fairly simply USB cable, and the pins on the Premier Elite main board also appear fairly standard.

I then came across this extremely helpful post:

http://cybergibbons.com/alarms-2/programming-a-texecom-premier-elite-12-w-using-a-ftdi-cable/

In which the author has discovered that the connector on the board is no more than a straightforward serial connection, with three pins – TXD, RXD and GND – connected. Using a USB-serial converter he was able to get everything working with the official ‘Wintex’ software which is a free download from Texecom.

I took a slightly different approach and bought from ebay a very small board which converts a mini-USB plug into serial with pins and solder points as outputs. It was about £4 delivered.

I bought one of these

I then used an old motherboard header cable directly soldered to the TXD, RXD and GND points on the board above, and connected the other end to pins 3 (GND), 4 (TXD) and 5 (RXD) at the Texecom end. So in other words the data is received by the Texecom on pin 4, and transmitted from pin 5. Once this was all wired up I secured the board inside the casing with a cable tie and ran a USB lead outside the box.

The end result looks like this:

So a very cheap solution which is just as good as the £40 official alternative.

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7 thoughts on “COM-USB alternative – DIY and cheap!”

  1. Hello,
    Thank you very much for this information I just found your post and I wish to do the same thing.
    But just a question you used the adapter in 3.3v or 5 v.
    Thank you for your reply
    Best regards

  2. Hi, off topic however I couldn’t contact you directly. For a cheaper alternative to the official Texecom key fobs, then these work perfectly (tried and tested by me). The key is the proximity tags need to be writable ones, rather than the typical pre-programmed ones with a read only ID. Presumably any based on EM4305 will work fine. Five of these cost me £2.19 postage paid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172304345801

  3. Thanks for the tip on the key fobs – I’d previously bought some that didn’t work (they must have been read-only). This will save me a bunch!

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